SUGGESTED SUPPLEMENTAL SUPPLIES
- Latex Gloves
- Eye Protection
- Bucket and access to water and a garden hose
- Soft rags for wiping any chemical spills on the exterior of the tank
- Duct tape for sealing up openings in the tank (petcock hole, etc.)
- Work bench and/or soft padding to lay the tank on
THESES DIRECTIONS ARE FOR METAL TANKS ONLY
It is important to understand each product in your repair kit and how it works because proper chemical interaction is essential for achieving the best possible bond of the sealer to the inside of the tank.
GLOVES AND EYE PROTECTION SHOULD BE WORN AT ALL TIMES.
PREPARATION: Empty tank of all fuel and rinse out with clean water; remove fuel petcock, float, filters, fit- tings, etc. Seal up those openings in the tank with duct tape or cork to keep the solutions in the tank when you clean, prep and seal the tank.
Outside painted surface of your tank should be protected from preparation and sealing products with soft rags or other suitable protection.
Mix your 1st quart of POR-15 CLEANER DEGREASER with 1 quart of WARM water. Extremely hot water could melt the adhesive on the duct tape. Pour the mixture into the tank, shake vigorously, and “roll” the tank around to ensure the cleaner gets to all inside surfaces for a minimum of 30 minutes. You may add a chain or nuts and bolts inside the tank to help knock rust and varnish off when shaking the tank. Now empty the solution from the tank and rinse it out with water. Repeat with 2nd quart of Cleaner Degreaser if necessary.
NOTE: Tank should be empty of rinsing water but does not have to be bone dry before using POR-15 METAL PREP.
Pour the entire bottle of POR-15 METAL PREP into the tank. Roll the tank around to ensure it coats all surfaces. Place the tank in different positions every half hour until the entire inside of the tank has been treated with POR-15 METAL PREP. Rinse the tank thoroughly with WARM water several times and drain it thoroughly (low spots in tanks collect water so be sure to roll tank around to get as much water out as possible). In order to get the tank completely dry, you must blow warm air into it because no tank will dry out on the inside by itself. The only way to do this job is to use forced air. This can be accom- plished by using a hair dryer or hot air gun. Do not use unfiltered compressor air.
TANKS MUST BE COMPLETELY DRY INSIDE BEFORE SEALING. THE SEALER WILL NOT STICK TO A DAMP OR WET TANK.
NOTE: Once the metal is treated, it can flash rust. Though the coating is designed to bond with any new flash rust, ideally you’ll want to perform the forced air drying promptly after draining the tank, and coat the tank with sealant soon after drying it.
PATCHING – If you have any big exterior or interior leaks we recommend performing this step before the sealant step. There are several methods to fix holes, but you must fix them BEFORE you put the POR-15 Fuel Tank Sealer into the tank. First, remove all paint aroundProduct InformationMotorcycle Fuel Tank Repair KitEverything you need to prepare and seal your motorcylce fuel tankarea to be patched and clean using POR-15 Cleaner Degreaser. Soak area with POR-15 Metal Prep and keep wet for a minimum of 30 minutes; then rinse with water and dry. Next, paint area with a liberal amount of POR-15 Fuel Tank Sealer and place a small piece of repair cloth over the wet painted area. Now, apply POR-15 Fuel Tank Sealer over repair cloth from the center outward so that the painted cloth is stretched evenly over repaired area. Let patched area dry until the area is dry to the touch with a slight finger drag before pouring the remain- ing POR-15 Fuel Tank Sealer into the tank. If you are just patching and not sealing the entire tank let the patched area dry for 96 hours before adding fuel to the tank.
If you aren’t aware of any holes, check to make sure you don’t have new ones now that the chemicals have removed the rust layer. The tank cleaning process may reveal new leaks in the tank after removing rust and rust deposits from weakened and thin tank walls.These areas are likely to be in the low points and seams, especially if there are low tank areas below the level of the petcock. These areas may have collected water from tank condensation and water in your fuel and over time may have corroded the tank metal.
Carefully check these areas for leaks when you have fluid in there (it will only be a very small trickle if there is a pinhole leak.)
SEALING: Open the POR-15 Fuel Tank Sealer and stir until a uniform color is achieved.
CAUTION! Pour entire contents of can into the tank. Roll the tank SLOWLY to ensure it coats the insides uniformly. In tanks with seams, and with low areas below the opening through which you are draining the sealant (typically the petcock hole) the sealant will puddle. Take great care to ensure you’ve drained out the excess and not allowing the sealer to puddle.
IMPORTANT! This is a very strong and durable coating. Take care to immediately clean surfaces on which you may have spilled the sealer. Any sealer remaining on painted surfaces will become permanent. Any excess sealer must be cleaned from screw threads for the petcock before it dries. A clean soft rag can be twisted into the screw holes to clean the material out.
FINAL NOTES: Let POR-15 Fuel Tank Sealer cure for at least 96 hours (4 days) before pouring in fuel.